farewell Siem Reap and Angkor Wat!
Experienced very 6 spectacular days (and 5 full days) exploring Angkor Wat and other temples near and far (Banteay Srei). Everything was just right, from the duration of my stay, my hotel, the amazing people I’ve met, the sunrises, sunsets.. timed to sublime perfection. Initially, I was not too thrilled about the fact that there were so many tourists here, but I can’t be selfish and want this all to myself. There are so many temples here (all varying in its history, style, and feel) and different times during the day, that it was not difficult to find tranquility. I also hired a tuk tuk driver for two days and biked for three days (over 100 km total!); thus, giving me a nice variation of activities and perspectives.
I spent my last late afternoon/evening at the Angkor Wat temple (I’ve been there for a few times already in the week). It was the right timing, with not that many tourists, mild heat, slight breeze, and the sun shined with soft golden rays. I walked around and was in awe of the majestic towers, the intricate carvings depicting gods and deities, the scale of the monument, the sunset reflected off the surrounding moats, the stillness of the moment. I thought about the ending sequence in one of my favorite movies, In the Mood for Love, in which Tony Leung’s character whispers his secret in a hole at Angkor Wat, gently touches it, and walks away; his secret forever buried and kept in the ancient temple. That scene captures so well the essence of Angkor Wat–mysterious, grand, magical, and poignant.
On a different note, I am not longer heading to Malaysia and Indonesia. Instead, I’m spending an extra few days in Cambodia, exploring Battambang, then to Thailand for a week, then Burma for 2.5 weeks (visa will be pending once I apply at the Myanmar embassy in Bangkok)! So, how did this happen, especially after I booked my flights on AirAsia that has a no -refund policy? Last month, I had booked the flights and my credit card was charged for all 4 of these flights. I checked my account online recently, and for some reason, all the charges for my flights were credited back. I spoke with representatives from AirAsia and they didn’t know why that happened. Now, what I can do is just pay the original cost at the airport and continue on that itinerary. However, if I do not continue with these bookings, there wouldn’t be an issue of the no-refund policy (with could be seen as the cancellation fees as well), since technically right now I still need to pay for the tickets that I had paid for already and that they had refunded me (some fluke in the system).
Since I am not bound to the no-refund policy now and the representatives confirmed that there would not be a penalty if I don’t fly, I could easily shift gears. I had originally wanted to go to Laos and Burma, or one or the other, but felt flying there was not convenient and would be costlier than me going to Malaysia/Indonesia. Malaysia/Indonesia would have been lovely too, but I had mainly chose them because flying there is cheaper (on second thought, expenses there will be higher than Thailand/Burma). But now, I can easily take the bus from Battambang to Bangkok, then after exploring Thailand for a bit (my first trip to Thailand in 2007 was amazing!), I can fly to Yangon from Bangkok. I’ve been yearning to go to Burma while it’s still largely untouched by tourism, and right now seems like such an exciting time to witness the country transitioning. It’s fascinating to see how events out of my control somehow align with one another. Reminds me of a quote from The Alchemist: “When you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you to achieve it.”
last night in Kampong Cham
This is my fifth night and last night in the idyllic city of Kampong Cham, located on the Mekong River, before heading to Siem Reap tomorrow morning. I’ve had such a slow yet lovely time here. I’ve watched the sun rise over the Mekong every morning. I’ve biked everyday by the river, around town, to far away temples, to the neighborhood my father grew up with his siblings, on paved roads, bumpy dirt paths, wide open streets lined with an abundance of mango and banana trees (sometimes jackfruit trees), and coconut palms. I’ve seen the town central, remote rural villages, bustling market, and rubber tree plantations. In the photographs I’ve documented here, I hope to give my dad a modern glimpse into where he spent the first 20 years of his life–a place he left almost 42 years ago. I’ve met so many amazing souls here as well and hope to share some of those encounters in another post.
updates from Cambodia!
I’ve had such a joyous first week in Cambodia! In the interest of time, I will do bullet points instead (apologies for no pictures):
- Spent the first two days in Phnom Penh and couchsurfed for the first time! Was hosted by a friendly and kind woman from Australia.
- Visited a local market, where my dad’s family lived in Cambodia decades ago. Befriended a Vietnamese tuk tuk driver and snapped lots of pictures everywhere.
- Met up with a friend I first met in Sapa in March over a few bottles of Angkor beer then later had quite an adventure with our tuk tuk driver.
- After being back and forth between HCMC and Hanoi the past few months, I was itching to get away from the city, so headed to the south coast to Sihanoukville (Kapong Som).
- Spent 4 days on Koh Rong island, a 2 hour boat ride from Sihanoukville. Perfect relaxation on a secluded beach with rustic bungalows and only 6 other guests. I did nothing, but tan, ate, drank beer, read, wrote, and watched the sunrise (woke up at 5am everyday, not that difficult considering I go to bed at 9pm). The water was crystal clear with a gradient of peridot green and aquamarine.
- Finished Leaving India; great book of family stories set against push/pull factors of immigration, laced with humor and poignancy. Quite sad that I have finished the book because now I’ll have to find more books to read.
- After coming back from Koh Rong, I enjoyed a tranquil sometimes quite bumpy half-hour drive with my new British friend on a tuk tuk to Stung Hav district (a small coastal village where I was born!). More importantly, this was the launching place for my family to flee to the refugee camps in Thailand. My mom told me I was 4-months old in their first attempt (unsuccessful) and tried a few months later, and this time it was successful. I saw Stung Hav High School and wondered if I lived in Cambodia, if I would have that chance to attend school there and what my fate would entail. Saw the most magnificent sunset on the ride back.
- Happy Khmer New Year! This also meant that I was pelted by adorable little kids with little plastic bags filled with water and fastened with rubber bands.
- Decided not to stay in cheapie guesthouses anymore. I don’t think I am a hotel snob, but had a horrible night a a guesthouse in downtown Sihanoukville last night. Shady place with seemingly shady guests. Slouching mattress with lime green Mickey Mouse sheets. Half of the glass window was missing, ushering in trance music from downstairs until 4am and abrasive traffic noises. Oh, and after some thunder, my fan went out and had a small explosion. Yep, no more of this!
- I’m boarding a bus in an hour heading to Phnom Penh then catching another bus to Kompong Cham for the next 5 days. I bought a bag of small bananas to prepare me for the trip. Kompong Cham is a small idyllic city by the Mekong River largely untouched by tourism. Looking forward to biking around the city. I’m mainly going because this is the birthplace of my dad, aunts, and uncles, and where they grew up.
- Looking forward to sharing my next updates
loose ends
Just finished submitting my last piece of work for my consultancy! Finally done. This experience has been rewarding, yet challenging for a number of reasons, which are better shared in person. However, what I’ll say is that this work has made me reevaluate my role as a Vietnamese American engaging in NGO and/or international development work in Vietnam and how I want to position myself in the future.
As a child of Vietnamese refugees and a part of the Southeast Asian diaspora, I was raised with a particular perspective governed by a specific historical context, but my being in Vietnam is an attempt to understand and be part of the process of healing and reconciliation. Personally, Vietnam has been such an uplifting experience, but professionally, my competency, character, and value have been questioned in unnecessary and hurtful ways—mainly stemming from the fact that I am Viet Kieu. But that experience can’t exactly be divorced from the personal aspect because my work is personal. Some people will argue that this predicament comes with the territory, that’s even expected in Vietnam, but I want to push back on that assumption and question why is that still the case and what are the implications in the long run for overseas Vietnamese who want to contribute to Vietnam in a meaningful and sustainable way. I’ll continue to ponder this…
In any case, I am all packed to embark on my trip to Cambodia, Malaysia, and Indonesia tomorrow! While I am excited for this upcoming adventure, I was beginning to feel nostalgic about leaving Vietnam the other day. I came home from an all day workshop and joined my cousins and aunt, who were already sitting outside the house on the sidewalk—chatting, gossiping, laughing. The weather was faintly humid, but the stickiness was alleviated by a slight breeze. The sun was setting against a dusty pink sky. Other neighbors walked around and engaged in small banter. In this simplicity and surrounded by family and laughter, I began to miss Vietnam, even while still being in Vietnam.
Despite that, I’m also very looking forward to relaxation, new surprises, and self-growth on this trip, as well as finishing three books that I’ve started but have yet to finish.
Leaving India: My Family’s Journey from Five Villages to Five Continents by Minal Hajratwala
Poverty Capital: Microfinance and the Making of Development by Anaya Roy
The Art of Happiness by the Dalai Lama and Howard Cutler
I also just added the audiobook version of The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho to my ipod. With my yoga mat, running shoes, journal, and camera tripod, I think I have the right amount of tools to keep me balanced. Aside from my own self-care, what I appreciate about traveling is the opportunity to meet amazing souls along the way.
I won’t be bringing my laptop along, so no picture updates for awhile, but I’ll update my blog when I can to let you know how I’m doing!
